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The Whole State in One
Barn
By Bill Zahren
(Posted 03/07/01)
If someone wanted to get a
good microcosm of Iowa (not that I’m saying anyone really
does) I’d take them to the Girls State Basketball Tournament
in tony downtown Des Moines.
It’s Iowa in a nutshell. It’s
all here. The good and the bad. The exciting and the tedious.
Screw the tours of the buildings and amenities that we give
big shots proposing to move to Iowa (not that I’m saying there
are any), I’d take them right to the girls state tournament
going on now through Saturday in Veterans Memorial Auditorium,
followed by boys state next week.
First of all, there’s the setting:
walking into Vets is like walking into the set for the movie
Hoosiers. You know, the last part where they play for the
championship circa 1959? That could have been shot in Vets.
Built sometime in the late 19th century, the place is like
a giant, brick machine shed. All the architectural wonder
of a giant cattle barn. It’s a huge rectangle with a peaked
roof on it.
That’s it. Of course a lot
of people here are embarrassed by Vets since it’s not the
Air Canada Centre with rings of luxury boxes where the elite
can occasionally gaze down upon the action while tinkling
the ice in their Scotch-and-waters. We want to retire Vets
by building a new $150 million Iowa Events Center across the
street. That’s fine, but let’s do so without dissing Vets.
It’s got HISTORY, baby. Those are real bricks in the walls.
Handwritten, faded signage
circa 1967 is posted around the place. One, a “Girls State
Tournament” sign, features a map of Iowa with a light in each
of all 99 counties. The lights for the schools playing blink
while the game is going on. After the game, the winner’s light
stays on and the losers’ go off. The sign was built sometime
during the Truman Administration, but it’s part of the TRADITION.
Vets is big, old, modest,
debt-free for decades and proud in its old age, just like
Iowa.
Second, you’ve got the people:
lots of slightly pudgy white people like me. Nothing like
seeing a guy with a beer gut and cap in his too-small regulation
“GOING TO STATE” T-shirt. The second the school qualifies
for the state tourney, they’re on the blower to a T-shirt
shop, ordering a couple hundred in the school’s colors with
“WOLVES RUN IN PACKS” (in honor of my mighty Harris-Lake Park
High School fighting Wolves). You GOTTA buy one and wear it
to the game, even if you think you can fit into that large
when you’re really a double XL man.
And at the Iowa high school
tournaments, a BIG THING is winning the sportsmanship trophy,
given in large part based on how your fans acted. Whereas
in some states the trophy goes to the fans that cause the
smallest amount of gunfire during the actual game (shots fired
in the parking lot do not count against the sportsmanship
trophy), at the Iowa tourney chanting “AIR BALL, AIR BALL”
can cost you the coveted sportsmanship crown. And it’s actually
a big deal. Schools say stuff like, “No way! We were better
sports than those guys!”
Plus you’ve got the total Iowa
cross-section -- everything from paunchy farmers to smart-ass
Web writers to grandparents -- all rooting politely for some
friend or relative, trying hard to be encouraging and vocal
without screwing up the chance at the sportsmanship trophy.
And you’ll hear some complaining
about paying $5 to park, $6 for a bratwurst and Coke, and
$6 to get in. A lot of Iowans have to work a couple of hours
to make $17 after taxes. We are not an affluent tribe. The
average wage here is something like $10 an hour. “$30,000
a year” sounds like a pretty big salary. The parking lot is
full of mid-90s domestic cars festooned with “GOIN’ TO STATE”
signs. Silicon Valley this ain’t. And here’s a shocker: We
don’t want it to be.
At the end of each game --
a scene guaranteed to freak out anyone from NYC, Chicago or
LA -- the fans from one school quickly file out from the lower
seats to give them up for the fans of the next schools to
play. The change happens as the next teams warm up. No “get
your own seat, buddy” or any brawling about it. It’s all about
taking turns and being polite, just like Iowa.
Third, you’ve got the teams:
the players and coaches. Bunch of girls with regulation-matching-school-colors
hair adornments. Somebody’s little girl out there, doing her
best, working her ass off, either hitting the threeeeeeeeecola
at the buzzer to win or clanking it off the back iron to lose.
Girls hop around like coked-up grasshoppers when they win,
and blither like small children when they lose. The emotion’s
all out there.
And in a shocking number of
cases, it’s the unheralded, non-star, no-college-scouts-will-be-calling
sub who makes some kind of brilliant, freakishly brave play
that turns the entire game. The quiet little girl who was
“always a great team player” and averages a savage seven points
a game will take the charge, get the call, make the crowd
freak out and set off a 14-5 run. The whole thing is a festival
of the underdog. It makes the marginal athletes and fans of
the underdog like me want to stand up and howl (and we do,
sportsmanship trophy not withstanding).
Speaking of make me weep. In
suits on the sidelines are the coaches, forced to wear huge
flowers (everyone pitched to get coach a flower!) on their
lapels during the game -- striking. While we got an NCAA Division
I coach up the road who makes $1.1 million a year (enough
to pay the yearly salary for 47 entry-level primary school
teachers) high school coaches are basically volunteers.
They get maybe a buck an hour
to spend two nights a week away from their families and stay
late after work every night during the season. High school
coaches do it because they love it. That’s about it. Maybe
1% are looking to move up the coaching ranks. Yet there they
are, guys like my high school coaches, Gary Richardson and
Jim Boyd, turning out players who would charge hell itself
for them.
For the players and the coaches,
it’s all about doing what you love with people you love just
for the love it. That’s Iowa.
Finally, while driving out
of the parking lot, you’ll have about five people stop and
let you get in the line of cars leaving. I’m pretty sure if
you had all four tires suddenly blow on your car in that situation,
you’d quickly have seven farmers working on your vehicle in
Indy pit crew fashion while their spouses offer you what’s
left of the "bars" they made for the four-hour drive down
from Alton, Iowa.
Oh hell yes, that’s the Iowa
I love. If you really want to know what it’s like in Iowa,
just get to the girls state basketball tournament. As my wise,
fellow Iowa Zealot friend Ann says about attracting people
to Iowa: “Why bring them here, or back here, if they won't
like it?”
Word is bond, Ann. I’d take
people to the girls state tourney. If they don’t get into
it, they won’t get into here. Thanks for visiting. Have a
nice life. Give us a call if you have a flat tire. We'll be
there for ya.
© 2001 Bill Zahren
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