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P'dog's Lookin' to Score
By Bill Zahren
(Posted 08/10/02)
5:12 p.m. Friday. Sunny and
84 degrees. Westbound on Grand Avenue in tony Des Moines.
Traffic is light, non-existent by New York and LA standards.
Rolling down the hill toward
63rd and Grand. Where’s that damn awning? Where’s the tent?
The crappy, white Dodge van? The hand-painted signs?
It’s been a few days and I’m
getting the shakes. I’m crashing off my vitamin C, folate,
thiamin, phosphorus and beta carotene high. I hurt. I hurt
all over, baby. Gotta make a connection today. Gotta get some
primo stuff.
I’m trying a new source this
time. My old connection dried up. One day he’s in the Lowe’s
parking lot, next day he ain’t. Cops must have busted him.
Doing hard time for selling without a permit. That’s The Man,
keeping us down.
I spot the new guy on the southwest
corner of 63rd and Grand. I pull my flamin’ hot 1995 Ford
Contour ride in, big bass thumping out NPR's All Things Considered
just as Cokie Roberts represents on Iraq. Every head turns
when they hear the throaty roar of my four cylinders. Yeah,
pressdog be in the house. And he’s hungry, you dig?
The woman behind the table
is as cool as a cattle tank at dawn. Oh, she’s holding all
the cards. I’m the drooling fool looking for a $4 fructose
fix.
“I just need a dozen,” I say,
stepping around some sandal-wearing, SUV-driving gomer who
wants to inspect the merchandise with a microscope before
he makes a deal. Hey, pinch a kernel and call it a day, Chopper.
I got places to be.
The lady deals me out 12. Green.
Turgid. Lush. “How much longer?” I ask, gazing lustily across
the pile. “Probably through the end of September,” she says.
“He’s got it planted so it matures throughout the season.
We’ll be here every day until the 26th, and then every weekend
through October.”
“But we need a good rain,”
the guy behind her in the stand says. “Without a good rain,
I don’t know.”
The damn rain. We’re held hostage
by it. Too much and we’re screwed. Too little and we’re screwed.
Too much too early or too late?
Screwed. “It’ll rain,” the woman says, handing me a bulging
Fareway grocery store bag. “It’ll rain.”
Back in the flamin’ Contour,
I lift one of the green skirts and peep out flashes of yellow
and white. Feel like dialing Mrs. ‘Dog on the StarTAC, ‘cause
I’m bringing home the sweet corn.
We'll boil, butter, salt and
eat a few ears later that night. I might microwave another
for breakfast. Inhale a couple for lunch. Take another couple
hits for supper.
That’s the way it plays out
when you’re a sweet corn addict.
Here’s the 4-1-1 on Iowa corn,
G. A good 99% of it is what us rural home boyz call “field
corn.” It’s hard as a 9mm hollow point when harvested. Most
of that gets ground up and fed to our millions of cattle and
hogs. “Sweet corn” is the stuff humans eat. Our farmers hook
us city folk up with a bit of the sweet stuff each year starting
around July 4.
You want the real stuff? You
got to go to the street. The suburban streets aren’t just
for lemonade stands, golden retrievers and joggers, baby.
It's also prime ground for the street corn vendors, representin'
in their beat-up pickups and vans.
If us corn tweakers need a
fix the vendors clear out at dusk, we may even resort to going
to the grocery store.
It'll do in a pinch, but true
connoisseurs know store corn is for posers, people who have
a problem parking their Volvos next to a vendor’s ragged Ford
F150 pickup. Everyone knows the most righteous stuff comes
right from the source. The guy who actually planted and picked
it. Like the little old dude who sold me some awesome Peaches
and Cream in front of the Catholic church about a mile from
my house.
He was a cheery little man
in his 70s. Cap, checked, short-sleeved shirt, glasses, work
pants and boots -- striking. He sat like the Corn Godfather
in his lawn chair while his granddaughter hooked me up with
a dozen.
“This corn from around here?”
I say. Don’t have me eating some Florida corn or some stuff
like that. My cash only goes to the local growers, ‘cause
I’m fifth-generation Iowa hard.
“Yep,” he says. “Just about
a half mile down the road. Farm’s been in the family since
1902.”
A hundred years on one farm
is what we call “brand loyalty” around here, Chief. I ate
that corn with reverence and respect, brothers and sisters,
giving thanks to almighty God for this great land. The crew
in Adel, Iowa knows the deal. About 10,000 hardcores showed
up for their annual sweet corn festival on August 9 and ate
through 5 tons of corn (15,000 ears).
Sure, we're diggin' the corn,
but Iowa's not just one big corn field. Only about 3 ½ percent
of the 3 million Iowans are farmers. Still enough to feed
China and have Russia over for desert, true.
The other 2.9 million of us
do lots of stuff that doesn’t involve cattle, hogs, corn,
beans and tractors. Mighty Des Moines is full of concrete
and 400,000 people.
But hey, don’t diss the farmers.
They built Iowa from the ground up with raw physical determination
and Iowa stubbornness. I’m down with being from a state famous
for farms.
So I lift an ear of corn to
my farm posse. You keep on plantin’ and the P'dog will keep
on eatin.’ True dat.
© 2002 Bill Zahren
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